CHANEL BATCH CODES

Dating a vintage Chanel fragrance requires comparing the bottle, box, concentration, typography, ingredient declaration, production markings, and regional distributor information. Chanel frequently retained familiar bottle designs for many years, while older bottles and packaging materials could remain in use during transitional periods. Consequently, no single feature should be considered conclusive. The following chronology provides useful reference points for identifying and dating Chanel fragrances and perfumed products.

Chanel Bottle Shapes Through the Decades Explained:

1921 — Original Sem-Designed Bottle. The original 1921 bottle had gently rounded corners, thin glass walls, and a small paper label. It was fitted with a tiny square stopper that was not faceted. The interlocking CC emblem was cut intaglio into the stopper. This early design had a softer, more delicate appearance than the heavier and more architectural bottles that followed.

1921 — Sharper-Cornered Variation. Another bottle used in 1921 retained the tiny, non-faceted square stopper with the intaglio CC emblem, but the bottle itself was smaller and more sharply defined. It had straighter corners, thin walls, a short neck, and the same relatively small label. These subtle differences demonstrate that more than one bottle variation existed during Chanel No. 5’s earliest year.

1924 — Emerald-Cut Stopper Introduced. In 1924, Chanel introduced a new rectangular stopper inspired by the shape of an emerald-cut gemstone. The stopper was now faceted, wider, and more decorative than the simple square stopper used in 1921. The bottle acquired thicker glass walls and a broader neck, while the paper label became noticeably larger.

• 2 oz — 3½ inches tall
• 1 oz — 3 inches tall
• ½ oz — 2⅛ inches tall
• ¼ oz — 1⅞ inches tall

1950 — Heavier Glass and Notched Shoulders. By approximately 1950, the bottle had become heavier and more substantial. The rectangular emerald-cut stopper was thicker but not as wide as its 1924 predecessor. The bottle had thicker walls, a heavier neck, and distinctly notched shoulders, while the large label remained an important part of the design.

• 1 oz — 3¼ inches tall
• ½ oz — 2½ inches tall
• ¼ oz — 2 inches tall

1970 — The Thickest Stopper. Around 1970, the faceted emerald-cut stopper reached its thickest and most substantial form. Its greater width recalled the proportions of the 1924 stopper, while the bottle itself had heavy walls and a broad neck. The large label continued to dominate the front of the bottle. Parfum bottles dating from the 1970s through the 1990s and manufactured by Pochet et du Courval may have Plastemeri components fitted over or around the stopper plugs. These plastic elements helped secure and seal the stopper and should not automatically be mistaken for modern replacements.

• 10 oz factice — 5.9 inches tall
• ¼ oz — 2 inches tall

1986 — Eau de Parfum Bottle. The taller 1986 bottle was created for the newly introduced Eau de Parfum splash. It retained the rectangular, faceted emerald-cut stopper, but the stopper was simplified and narrower than the broad 1970 version. The bottle continued to have thick glass walls, while its label was medium-sized in relation to its taller proportions. The Eau de Parfum spray bottle used a similar-looking stopper or cover designed to fit over the spray mechanism. The following measurement applies to the splash bottle rather than the spray presentation:

• 3.3 oz splash — 4.4 inches tall

Small Tester Bottles -  Small tester bottles, not pictured here, may be fitted with distinctive oval disk-shaped stoppers. These miniature testers stand approximately 2⅜ inches tall.

Collector’s Note: Bottle dimensions can vary slightly because of manufacturing tolerances, stopper fit, and the method used to measure the overall height. When dating a Chanel bottle, compare the shape and width of the stopper, thickness of the glass, form of the shoulders and neck, label proportions, bottle capacity, base markings, and packaging rather than relying on height alone.

Quick Look — Chanel Fragrance Dating Timeline

1920s:

• 1921 - Chanel No. 5 Extrait, also identified as Parfum or Perfume, introduced.
• 1924 - Chanel No. 5 Eau de Toilette splash introduced.
• 1924 - Face Powder introduced in Chanel No. 5 and Gardénia.
• 1926 - Talcum Powder introduced.
• 1920s–1951 -The small raised “o” in fragrance names beginning with “No.” has a dot beneath it.. After 1951- The dot beneath the small raised “o” disappears.

1930s-1940s:

• 1936 - Eau de Cologne splash introduced in Chanel No. 5, Cuir de Russie, and Gardénia.
• 1937- After-Bath Powder introduced.
• 1938 - Dusting Powder introduced.
• 1938–1950s- American-market products may be marked “Chanel, Inc., New York Distributor.”
• 1938 onward - Chanel, Inc. imported fragrance essences from France and compounded, bottled, packaged, and distributed certain products in the United States.
• 1940 - Chanel No. 22 Eau de Cologne splash introduced.

 

1950s - 1960s:

• Until 1958 - Black-striped boxes were used.
• 1958 - Parfum Spray introduced.
• 1958 - Black-and-gold Spray Cologne introduced.
• 1958 onward - The lightweight, travel-friendly cologne sprays were metered to provide approximately 800 sprays per bottle.
• 1962 - Oil for the Bath introduced, also marked Bath Oil or Huile de Bain.
• 1966 - After-Bath Oil introduced.

1970s:

• 1970 - Chanel No. 19 introduced.
• 1970 - Voile Parfumée introduced.
• 1970–1987 - Pure parfums are generally marked “Perfume” beneath the fragrance name.
• 1971 - Body Lotion introduced.
• 1971 - Eau de Chanel No. 5 introduced.
• 1976 onward - Boxes may display an EMB establishment code consisting of “EMB” followed by six numerals.
• Before 1976 - Boxes generally do not display an EMB code.
• Until 1980 - Alcoholic strength is expressed with a degree symbol, such as “80°.”

1980s:

• After 1980 - Alcoholic strength is expressed with a percentage sign, such as “80%.”
• 1986 - Chanel Eau de Parfum splash introduced. The 1.4-ounce refillable spray for Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum introduced.
• 1987 onward - “Paris/New York” added to Eau de Parfum presentations.
• 1988 onward - “Parfum” replaces “Perfume” beneath the fragrance name on pure parfum presentations.
• 1989 onward - Barcodes appear on Chanel boxes.

1990s-2000s:

• 1992 onward - Green Dot recycling symbol appears on boxes.
• Before 1995 - “Eau de Toilette” or “Eau de Cologne” is generally printed above the word “Chanel.”
• 1995 onward - “Eau de Toilette” or “Eau de Cologne” is generally printed beneath the word “Chanel.”
• 1997 - Eau de Parfum Spray offered in various sizes.
• 1998–2003 - A short ingredients list appears on the box, often listing alcohol, water, and parfum.
• After 2004 - A long ingredients list appears on the box, including individually declared fragrance allergens when applicable.
• After 2005  - New address and company lines appear on boxes and bottle labels, including “Chanel Paris,” “Chanel New York,” and “Neuilly-sur-Seine.”

Regional Production Clues

United States

• 1938–1950s “Chanel, Inc., New York Distributor” may appear on American-market packaging.
• American headquarters: 35 West 34th Street, New York City.
• “Compounded in U.S.A.” Indicates that fragrance essences imported from France were blended with American alcohol and water, then bottled, labeled, packaged, and distributed in the United States.
• French-style fragrance names: Products named Gardénia de Chanel, Glamour de Chanel, or Jasmin de Chanel may carry an additional statement explaining that they were compounded in the United States.

United Kingdom

• London address: 19–21 Old Bond Street, London. Postal code: W1X 3DA.
• British-market products: Fragrance essences imported from France could be blended with British alcohol and water, then bottled, packaged, and distributed within the United Kingdom.

Collector’s Note :These dates are approximate, and transitional packaging may combine features from adjoining periods. Always compare the typography, concentration, bottle design, box style, EMB code, alcohol marking, distributor, address, barcode, recycling symbols, ingredients list, and batch code before assigning a production date.

Early Product Introductions

• 1921 – Chanel No. 5 Extrait, also identified as Parfum or Perfume
• 1924 – Chanel No. 5 Eau de Toilette splash
• 1924 – Face Powder introduced in Chanel No. 5 and Gardénia
• 1926 – Talcum Powder
• 1936 – Eau de Cologne splash introduced in Chanel No. 5, Cuir de Russie, and Gardénia
• 1937 – After-Bath Powder
• 1938 – Dusting Powder
• 1940 – Chanel No. 22 Eau de Cologne splash
• 1958 – Parfum Spray
• 1958 – Spray Cologne
• 1962 – Oil for the Bath, also marked Bath Oil or Huile de Bain
• 1966 – After-Bath Oil
• 1970 – Chanel No. 19
• 1970 – Voile Parfumée
• 1971 – Body Lotion
• 1971 – Eau de Chanel No. 5
• 1986 – Eau de Parfum splash
• 1997 – Eau de Parfum Spray offered in various sizes

Early Typography

From the 1920s until approximately 1951, the small raised “o” used in fragrance names beginning with “No.” generally has a dot beneath it. After approximately 1951, this dot disappears. Because labels and boxes could remain in storage and be used later, this typographical feature should be treated as supporting evidence rather than an exact dating method.

Boxes and Spray Presentations

Chanel’s black-striped boxes were used until approximately 1958. That year, Chanel introduced its familiar black-and-gold cologne sprays. These lightweight but sturdy containers were designed for the age of air travel and were advertised as metered sprays capable of delivering approximately 800 applications from each bottle.

“Perfume” and “Parfum” Markings

From approximately 1970 through 1987, Chanel’s pure fragrance presentations were generally marked “Perfume” beneath the fragrance name. Beginning around 1988, the French designation “Parfum” replaced “Perfume.” This change is especially helpful when dating otherwise similar extrait bottles.

EMB Establishment Codes

Beginning in the years following 1976, Chanel boxes may carry the abbreviation “EMB” followed by six numerals, such as “EMB 123456.” This is an establishment-identification code connected with the French company responsible for manufacturing or packaging the product. Its presence generally indicates packaging from the later 1970s or afterward. If no EMB code appears, the box may predate the mid-1970s, although its absence alone does not prove an early date because requirements and packaging varied according to product and market.

Alcohol-Strength Markings

Until approximately 1980, Chanel generally expressed alcoholic strength with the degree symbol, as in “80°.” After approximately 1980, the percentage sign became customary, producing markings such as “80%.” This small change can provide an especially useful clue when comparing bottles with otherwise similar labels.

Eau de Parfum

Chanel introduced the Eau de Parfum concentration in 1986. The 1.4-ounce refillable spray bottle for Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum was introduced at the same time and was initially offered only in that size.

From approximately 1987 onward, the words “Paris/New York” were added to Eau de Parfum presentations. This wording can help distinguish later examples from the earliest 1986 issues.

Barcodes and Recycling Symbols

Barcodes began appearing on Chanel boxes around 1989. A box without a barcode may therefore belong to an earlier period, although barcode adoption could vary according to country, distributor, and remaining packaging supplies.

The Green Dot recycling symbol began appearing on Chanel boxes around 1992. Its presence supplies an approximate earliest date but cannot establish the exact year in which the fragrance was produced.

Placement of the Concentration

Before approximately 1995, wording such as “Eau de Toilette” or “Eau de Cologne” was generally printed above the word “Chanel.” Beginning around 1995, the concentration was placed beneath the Chanel name. This change in label arrangement can help distinguish earlier bottles from later examples.

Ingredients Lists

From approximately 1998 through 2003, Chanel boxes commonly carried a short ingredients declaration, often listing little more than alcohol, water, and parfum.

By approximately 2004, a much longer ingredients list appeared on the box. These expanded declarations may individually name regulated fragrance allergens such as limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, citral, and coumarin. A long, complicated ingredients list therefore generally indicates packaging from 2004 or later.

Changes Introduced Around 2005

Beginning around 2005, newer company and address lines appeared on Chanel boxes and bottle labels, including “Chanel Paris,” “Chanel New York,” and “Neuilly-sur-Seine.” Their presence generally identifies a presentation from 2005 or later, although transitional overlap should always be expected.

American Production and Distribution

Collector’s Note: The wording “Chanel, Inc., New York Distributor” was used from approximately 1938 into the 1950s. Chanel, Inc., headquartered at 35 West 34th Street, New York City, served as Chanel’s American production and distribution operation. Beginning in 1938, its facility mixed and compounded perfumes, powders, cosmetics, and other scented products for the United States market.

Perfume essences were imported from France and then blended in the United States with domestically sourced alcohol and water. The finished products were bottled, labeled, packaged, sold, shipped, and distributed by Chanel, Inc. Some examples therefore carry a label stating “Compounded in U.S.A.”

Because these products were not completely manufactured, bottled, and sealed in France, their labels and packaging could not misleadingly suggest that the finished merchandise was a direct French import. When French-style fragrance names such as Gardénia de Chanel, Glamour de Chanel, or Jasmin de Chanel appeared, an accompanying statement identifying the product as compounded in the United States helped clarify its actual origin.

British Production and Distribution

Collector’s Note: Chanel maintains a registered office at 19–21 Old Bond Street, London. Packaging marked “W1X 3DA” bears the postal code associated with that London address and may identify a product compounded or distributed for the British market.

As with Chanel’s American operation, fragrance essences and cosmetic materials could be imported from France and blended in Britain with domestically sourced alcohol and water. This arrangement reduced customs expenses associated with importing fully finished perfume. The products were then bottled, labeled, packaged, sold, and distributed within the British market. A London address or postal code therefore identifies the market and production arrangement, but does not mean that the original perfume essence was created in Britain.

Nr.5, batch 0608, with barcode, without list of ingredients
Date:  end of 1991 

Collector’s Note: Transitional periods may show overlapping bottle styles, boxes, labels, addresses, typography, ingredient declarations, batch codes, and regulatory symbols. Chanel often used remaining stocks of serviceable packaging rather than discarding them, so an authentic presentation may combine characteristics associated with two adjoining periods. For the most reliable estimate, compare every available clue, including the fragrance’s launch date, concentration, bottle construction, label arrangement, box design, distributor, ingredients list, barcode, recycling symbols, and batch code.

BATCH CODES:

Chanel is one of the more difficult perfume houses to date because its principal French batch code consists of four numerals that appear to contain no obvious production year. The system is based on a continuously advancing monthly sequence rather than a conventional year-and-month format. The number progresses from 00 through 99 and then begins again at 00. Since this sequence contains 100 possible numbers, each complete cycle lasts approximately 100 months, or eight years and four months.

Although a Chanel batch code contains four numerals, the first two are the most important for establishing its position within the cycle. For example, if a bottle is marked 9510, concentrate on the initial number 95; the final two numerals identify other production information and are not used for this basic dating method.

The first two numerals advance by one with each passing month. Within a particular cycle, for example, 95 might correspond to May. The following numbers would then progress consecutively: 96 for June, 97 for July, 98 for August, and 99 for September. After 99, the sequence returns to 00, which would represent October in this example, followed by 01 for November, 02 for December, and so forth.

The difficulty is that the code contains no numeral identifying the year or the particular cycle. The same initial number returns approximately every eight years and four months. Therefore, a code beginning with 95 could belong to several different production periods. The batch code alone cannot reveal whether the bottle was made in the 1980s, 1990s, 2000s, or a later decade.

To determine the correct cycle, the code must be compared with other evidence on the bottle and box. Useful clues include the fragrance’s launch date, concentration, label arrangement, address, distributor, EMB number, alcohol notation, barcode, Green Dot symbol, ingredients list, bottle construction, and packaging design. These details establish the broad period, after which the first two digits of the batch code can help narrow the date to a particular month or range.

Because Chanel’s repeating system has no built-in year reference, complete certainty is rarely possible without official production records or confirmation from Chanel. Nevertheless, by combining the four-digit code with reliable packaging clues, collectors can date most Chanel fragrances from approximately 1980 onward with a reasonable degree of accuracy.

Tutorial Photos:

 

The wording EMB plus 6 numbers: 

it was adopted in 1976

("1726" is the batch code)

This is a Bar-code, it's printed on the box

 

This is a Batch-code (3401),

 impressed under the Bar-code on the box

Where to Find the Batch Code

Chanel batch codes are usually printed, stamped, or embossed on the bottom of the box and engraved into the glass on the back of the bottle near its base. The engraving can be extremely faint and may disappear against dark perfume or reflective glass, so hold the bottle beneath a strong light and slowly tilt or rotate it until the numerals become visible. When both the bottle and its original box are present, compare their codes; matching numbers provide useful evidence that the packaging and bottle originally belonged together.

 

Batch number is engraved (5410)

on the back side or bottom of the bottle

the clues are alcohol as "°" (80°)  and the very tiny EMB code.

This could be dated around 1976-1980

Batch code engraved on the bottom of the box (0113),without barcode.without green dot. It could be dated from 1980 to 1990.

 Quick Dating Method

First, examine the box and bottle for chronological clues such as a barcode, Green Dot recycling symbol, ingredients list, EMB number, address, distributor statement, and concentration placement. Next, locate the four-digit batch code and use its first two numerals to determine the bottle’s position within Chanel’s repeating monthly sequence; the final two numerals are not needed for this basic calculation. Finally, consult the table below, select the cycle that agrees with the packaging evidence, and calculate the approximate production month and year. Keep in mind that older boxes without modern symbols were sometimes retained and used for later bottles, so the absence of a barcode, Green Dot, or ingredients declaration should never be treated as conclusive by itself.

The Classic French Four-Digit Chanel Batch Code

If a Chanel presentation has the classic French four-digit batch code but its box has no barcode, Green Dot symbol, or ingredients declaration, it generally belongs to an early production period, most often before 1990. Only the first two numerals are used for this method; the final two are represented by “xx” and can be disregarded when estimating the date. The first two numerals advanced continuously with the passing months, so an increase of ten corresponds to approximately ten months. Because the sequence returned to 00 after reaching 99, the same prefixes eventually reappeared and must be interpreted alongside the bottle and packaging. The following reference points can be used to estimate the month and year:

• 10xx — June 1975
• 20xx — April 1976
• 30xx — February 1977
• 40xx — December 1977
• 50xx — October 1978
• 60xx — August 1979
• 70xx — June 1980
• 80xx — April 1981
• 90xx — February 1982
• 00xx — December 1982
• 10xx — October 1983
• 20xx — August 1984
• 30xx — June 1985
• 40xx — April 1986
• 50xx — February 1987
• 60xx — December 1987
• 70xx — October 1988
• 80xx — August 1989

The entries beginning in 1975 apply when the bottle, label, and packaging exhibit characteristics associated with the 1970s, while a presentation lacking a barcode, Green Dot recycling symbol, and ingredients declaration will more commonly fall within the 1980s portion of the sequence. The table provides reference points at ten-number intervals, with each increase of one representing approximately one additional month. For example, if 70xx corresponds to June 1980, then 71xx indicates July 1980, 72xx indicates August 1980, and the sequence continues forward month by month. Because the batch-code cycle eventually repeats, these calculations must always be confirmed by comparing the code with the box, bottle, typography, concentration, and other period-specific features.

The Barcode & Green Dot Period: 1990–2004

If a Chanel box displays a barcode and/or the Green Dot recycling symbol but does not carry the long ingredients list naming individual fragrance allergens, it generally dates from approximately 1990 to 2004. Barcodes appeared first, while the Green Dot was introduced around 1992; from approximately 1998 through 2003, boxes may also carry a short ingredients declaration listing basic components such as alcohol, water, and parfum. Using the first two numerals of the four-digit batch code, the following reference points can help establish the approximate production month and year:

• 90xx — June 1990
• 00xx — April 1991
• 10xx — February 1992
• 20xx — December 1992
• 30xx — October 1993
• 40xx — August 1994
• 50xx — June 1995
• 60xx — April 1996
• 70xx — February 1997
• 80xx — December 1997
• 90xx — October 1998
• 00xx — August 1999
• 10xx — June 2000
• 20xx — April 2001
• 30xx — February 2002
• 40xx — December 2002
• 50xx — October 2003

The Green Dot recycling symbol begins appearing during the 1992 portion of this batch-code sequence, while a short ingredients declaration—typically listing alcohol, water, and parfum—is most often found on boxes dating from approximately 1998 through 2003. Dates between the ten-number reference points can be calculated month by month: for example, if 50xx corresponds to June 1995, then 51xx indicates July 1995, 52xx indicates August 1995, and the sequence continues accordingly. Because barcodes, recycling symbols, and revised labels were not necessarily introduced at the same time in every market—and older packaging could remain in use—the calculated date should always be compared with the bottle design, label arrangement, distributor, address, ingredients list, and other period-specific features.

The Expanded Ingredients Period: 2004–2015

If a Chanel box displays a barcode, the Green Dot recycling symbol, and a long ingredients list naming individual fragrance allergens, the presentation generally dates from approximately 2004 or later. During this period, the first two numerals of the four-digit batch code continued to advance with the passing months, allowing the following reference points to be used:

• 60xx — August 2004
• 70xx — June 2005
• 80xx — April 2006
• 90xx — February 2007
• 00xx — December 2007
• 10xx — October 2008
• 20xx — August 2009
• 30xx — June 2010
• 40xx — April 2011
• 50xx — February 2012
• 60xx — December 2012
• 70xx — October 2013
• 80xx — August 2014
• 90xx — June 2015
• 96xx — December 2015

Dates between these reference points can be calculated month by month. For example, if 80xx corresponds to April 2006, then 81xx indicates May 2006 and 82xx indicates June 2006. In this sequence, 96xx, corresponding to approximately December 2015, was the final number used before Chanel reset or revised the coding cycle. As always, confirm the estimated date by comparing the batch code with the ingredients declaration, address, label design, bottle style, and other packaging features.

Warning: The Batch-Code Reset

Chanel reset or substantially revised its batch-code sequence at the end of 2015. The monthly calculation method described above should therefore be used only for bottles produced through December 2015. Codes found on later products belong to a newer cycle and cannot be interpreted reliably with the pre-2016 table. Because the same numerical prefixes may reappear, packaging clues are essential for distinguishing a post-2015 bottle from an earlier example.

To illustrate how the monthly sequence works, the dates can be calculated backward from 70xx, which corresponds to October 2013. Each decrease of one in the initial two numerals represents approximately one month earlier:

• 70xx — October 2013
• 69xx — September 2013
• 68xx — August 2013
• 67xx — July 2013
• 66xx — June 2013
• 65xx — May 2013
• 64xx — April 2013
• 63xx — March 2013
• 62xx — February 2013
• 61xx — January 2013
• 60xx — December 2012
• 59xx — November 2012
• 58xx — October 2012
• 57xx — September 2012
• 56xx — August 2012
• 55xx — July 2012
• 54xx — June 2012
• 53xx — May 2012
• 52xx — April 2012
• 51xx — March 2012
• 50xx — February 2012

The same method can be continued backward or forward until the nearest reference point in the dating table is reached. Only the first two numerals are needed for this calculation; the final two characters, represented by “xx,” are not used to determine the month.

Recognizing Possible Reformulations

From approximately 2004 onward, the expanded ingredients declaration can provide clues to possible reformulations. Compare boxes from different batches and examine whether named allergens disappear, appear, or change position within the list. A substantial alteration may indicate that the fragrance formula—or the relative amounts of certain materials—was revised. However, a changed ingredients list is not absolute proof of reformulation: regulatory updates, revised labeling practices, ingredient suppliers, concentration differences, or market-specific requirements may also alter the declaration. The strongest evidence comes from comparing ingredients lists on the same fragrance and concentration while also considering the batch dates, packaging, and documented regulatory changes.

TUTORIAL PICTURES

Antaeus batch 5562, with long list of ingredients

date : July, 2012

Antaeus batch 2262 with barcode, without list of ingredients, date: February 1993

 

Allure Homme, batch 0109, it was launched in 1999 

Date: September 1999.

Antaeus batch 3426 with greendot, Date: beginning of 1994

Antaeus, batch 5506, with longlist of ingredients
Date: beginning of 2012

(from Ebay) Pour Monsieur, barcode plus short list of ingredients, batch code 5207, actual date = end of 2003

 

(from ebay) Pour Monsieur, with long list of ingredients
generic date = after 2004

Antaeus, batch 6727, without any symbol, date : July, 1988

 

 

Antaeus, batch 2262, with barcode, without long list of ingredients, Date: mid of 1993.

Antaeus, batch 9146, with barcode, but without green dot, Date: mid of 1990.

Antaeus, batch 8501, with all symbols plus, long list of ingredients, plus wording Chanel Paris Chanel New York, date: end of 2006

 

Pour Monsieur, batch 5410, without any symbol on the box date: mid of 1987

Egoiste, batch 9408, with barcode, without greendot Date: end of 1990

 

Chanel Nr.5, batch 6081, long list of ingredients, wording Chanel Paris, Chanel New York.Date: end of 2012

 

 

 

Antaeus, batch 1726, no symbols.

Antaeus, batch 4514, no symbols

, actually = mid of 1986

 (thanks to Andrea Bissoli)

From Ebay, Antaeus, short list of ingredients,

 batch 4403

Date: beginning of 2003

(thanks to Noggs from Basenotes) Antaeus, short list of ingredients, batch nr. 1702, date = beginning of 2002

 

Nr.5, batch 6106, with barcode and greendot,

 without long list of ingredients, 

actually = mid of 1996

Platinum Egoiste, batch 8715, with barcode without long list of ingredients. Date: mid of 1998.

(From Ebay) Allure, with long list of ingredients, batch code 5301, date: mid of 2012.

from Ebay, Coco, long list of ingredients, batch code 4527, date: end of 2011

UNUSUAL BOTTLES with 3 digits batch codes

batch number 09K (thanks to hedonist222, Basenotes)

batch number FJ1  (thanks to Caoleus, Basenotes)

images from my friend Andre Moreau at the RaidersoftheLostScent blog

Russia Leather - Woods of the Isles - US Distributor

Beginning in 1938, Chanel’s perfumes for the American market were distributed by Chanel Inc., New York, whose headquarters were located at 35 West Thirty-Fourth Street, New York City. The wording “Chanel Inc., New York Distributor” appears on labels and packaging from this period and continued in use well into the 1960s, making it a key identifying feature for U.S.-market bottles. From 1938 onward, Chanel Inc. operated a domestic facility engaged in the mixing and compounding of perfumes, powders, cosmetics, and other toilet preparations intended for sale in the United States.

During this era, Chanel Inc. imported perfume essences from France, but the final products were blended with American alcohol and water, then bottled, labeled, packaged, and distributed entirely in the United States. Bottles were manufactured domestically, as was the outer packaging. As a result, some labels explicitly state “compounded in U.S.A.”—a legally significant phrase indicating that while the aromatic concentrates were French, the finished product was American-made. This production model, also used by houses such as Guerlain, helped companies reduce import duties while maintaining fragrance continuity across markets.

This manufacturing arrangement became the focus of regulatory scrutiny, culminating in a 1941 ruling upheld by the U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals, affirming an order issued by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). Chanel’s petition to challenge the FTC’s findings was dismissed, requiring full compliance with the Commission’s cease-and-desist order. The FTC ruled that Chanel could not use terms such as “Paris” or “France”—or any other wording suggestive of foreign manufacture—on products made or compounded in the United States, as this could mislead consumers into believing the perfumes were imported finished goods rather than domestically produced items.

The ruling also addressed the use of French-language product names. Chanel was prohibited from using names such as Gardenia de Chanel, Glamour de Chanel, or Jasmin de Chanel for U.S.-made products unless the labeling clearly stated that the items were made or compounded in the United States. Furthermore, if French or other foreign terms were used, the FTC required that a clear English translation or equivalent appear in direct connection with the foreign wording, ensuring transparency for American consumers.

As a direct result of this ruling, a distinctive labeling style emerged on Chanel perfumes sold in the United States from the late 1930s through the 1940s, and in some cases beyond. During this period, collectors will often encounter bilingual labels such as Bois des Iles / Woods of the Isles and Cuir de Russie / Russian Leather, as well as English descriptors like “Toilet Water.” These translations were not stylistic embellishments or packaging errors; they were legal clarifications mandated by U.S. consumer-protection law.

For collectors today, these details provide a reliable framework for dating and contextualizing vintage Chanel bottles. French names paired with English translations, references to “Chanel Inc., New York,” and phrases such as “compounded in U.S.A.” strongly indicate American-market production from the FTC-regulated era. By contrast, bottles labeled solely in French—particularly those referencing Paris without qualification—generally point to earlier production or European-market distribution. Understanding these regulatory-driven label conventions allows collectors to distinguish between markets, approximate production periods, and appreciate these bottles not only as luxury objects, but as artifacts shaped by international trade, law, and advertising history.

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Fake Chanel on Facebook Marketplace

Collectors looking for vintage Chanel perfume have to be aware that there are fakes floating around on Facebook Marketplace. Here are three examples I found being sold by the same seller in Pennsylvania. Each one is fake. Take a good look at the bottles, the stoppers and the labels. Each one is different than the other. 

Lilac by Chanel (1929)

Lilac by Chanel, launched in 1929 and sometimes referred to as Lilas de Chanel, takes its name from a word rich in poetry, history, and sensory promise. “Lilac” derives from the French lilas, itself traced to the Persian lilak, referring to the pale violet hue of the flower. In everyday terms, it is pronounced "LYE-lack" in English and "lee-LAH" in French. The word immediately evokes soft spring light, flowering shrubs in bloom, pastel colors, and a fleeting, romantic freshness. Emotionally, lilac suggests renewal, nostalgia, and restrained femininity—neither heavy nor overtly seductive, but elegant, tender, and slightly wistful. For Chanel, choosing the name “Lilac” was an intentional gesture: it aligned the perfume with refinement, modernity, and an idealized vision of nature filtered through urban sophistication.

The perfume emerged at the close of the Roaring Twenties, a period defined by rapid social change, artistic experimentation, and the confident redefinition of womanhood. The late 1920s—often associated with the Années folles in France—saw women embracing shorter hemlines, bobbed hair, streamlined silhouettes, and a new sense of independence. Fashion moved away from excess ornamentation toward clean lines and modern forms, a philosophy Chanel herself helped define. In perfumery, this era marked a decisive shift: fragrances became bolder, more abstract, and increasingly reliant on synthetic materials that allowed perfumers to construct scents never found in nature. Aldehydic florals, luminous bouquets, and stylized interpretations of flowers were replacing literal, soliflore reproductions.

Women of this period would have related instinctively to a perfume called “Lilac.” The flower was already deeply familiar—associated with springtime gardens, youth, and gentle romance—yet its name carried enough restraint to feel appropriate for the modern woman. Wearing Lilac by Chanel would have felt both comforting and progressive: a recognizable floral theme, rendered with clarity and polish rather than Victorian sentimentality. It suggested freshness without naivety, femininity without excess, and refinement without heaviness—qualities that resonated strongly with women navigating new social freedoms while maintaining elegance.

In olfactory terms, “Lilac” is not a single natural essence but an idea interpreted through scent. There is no essential oil distilled directly from lilac blossoms, a fact well known to perfumers by the late nineteenth century. Instead, lilac accords were traditionally constructed using a combination of natural extracts and, increasingly, synthetic aromachemicals. By the time Chanel introduced its version in 1929, the lilac fragrance had a long lineage: throughout the nineteenth century and into the early twentieth, nearly every major perfumery offered its own lilac, based on a shared structural formula. What distinguished one from another was nuance—an added material here, a removed note there—allowing each house to claim individuality.

image created by me to simulate what the Lilac bottle would have looked like.

Chanel’s Lilac was created by Ernest Beaux, who brought a distinctly modern sensibility to the genre. Earlier lilac formulas leaned heavily on natural tinctures, infusions, and floral extracts, but by the turn of the century, synthetics such as terpinyl formate, n-butyl phenylacetate, and benzyl acetate had become indispensable. These materials not only replaced costly or unavailable naturals but also enhanced brightness, diffusion, and longevity. Beaux’s interpretation would have reflected this evolution: a lilac not as a literal flower, but as a luminous, clean, and carefully balanced floral impression—polished in the Chanel style.

In the context of the broader fragrance market, Lilac by Chanel was not radical in concept, as lilac perfumes were already well established. However, it stood apart in execution. Where many lilacs remained soft, nostalgic, or overtly decorative, Chanel’s version aligned with the house’s broader aesthetic—modern, restrained, and quietly luxurious. It fell in line with contemporary trends toward abstraction and synthesis, yet distinguished itself through refinement and balance. In this way, Lilac by Chanel functioned as both homage and update: a familiar floral reimagined for the modern woman of 1929, poised at the threshold between tradition and modernity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Lilac is classified as a floral–aldehydic oriental fragrance for women (sometimes described more specifically as an aldehydic floral balsamic).

• Top notes: terpineol, anisic aldehyde, phenylacetaldehyde, orange blossom absolute, n-butyl phenylacetate, terpinyl formate 
• Middle notes: heliotropin, bitter almond, jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute, linalool, ylang ylang oil, rhodinol, violet, ionone, cinnamic alcohol, methyl anthranilate, hydroxycitronellal 
• Base notes: benzyl acetate, cedar, civet, vanillin, storax, musk, musk ambrette, ambergris, tolu balsam, Peru balsam, benzoin, bois de rose

Scent Profile:

Chanel’s Lilac, imagined through the lens of late-1920s French perfumery, would have unfolded as a carefully staged sensory experience—an abstract floral illusion built from light, air, powder, warmth, and shadow. Rather than presenting a literal lilac blossom, the fragrance would invite the wearer into the idea of lilac: a pale violet haze drifting through spring air, rendered modern through aldehydes and deepened by balsams and animalic warmth.

The opening would feel immediate and radiant, like stepping into sunlight filtered through blossoms. Terpineol brings a cool, lilting freshness—piney yet floral, with a clean, almost silvery brightness that lifts the entire composition. Anisic aldehyde follows with a sweet, powdery shimmer reminiscent of almond, vanilla, and heliotrope, imparting a cosmetic softness that feels both refined and slightly nostalgic. Phenylacetaldehyde adds a honeyed floral nuance—suggestive of hyacinth and rose—introducing a gentle sweetness that bridges freshness and romance. 

Orange blossom absolute, most prized from Mediterranean groves such as Tunisia or Morocco, contributes a creamy, solar floral warmth: green at first, then softly indolic, evoking white petals warmed by the sun. n-Butyl phenylacetate, a key lilac material of the era, smells unmistakably floral and sweet, with facets of hyacinth and lilac itself; it gives the illusion of petals without ever existing in nature. Terpinyl formate ties the opening together with a fresh, slightly fruity-floral sparkle, reinforcing lift and diffusion. Together, these materials create a luminous, aldehydic veil—airy, elegant, and unmistakably modern for its time.

As the fragrance settles, the heart blooms into a plush, powdery floral bouquet that feels both intimate and enveloping. Heliotropin unfolds like soft almond powder and vanilla-tinged petals, imparting a velvety cosmetic elegance. Bitter almond deepens this effect, adding a marzipan-like warmth that feels tender and comforting rather than gourmand. Jasmine absolute, traditionally sourced from Grasse, brings a narcotic floral richness—lush, slightly animalic, and sensuous—while tuberose absolute, often associated with warmer climates, contributes creamy, waxy florality with an almost opalescent glow. Linalool, naturally present in many flowers, smooths the bouquet with its fresh, lightly woody floral softness, acting as a bridge between brightness and depth. 

Ylang-ylang oil, prized from the Comoros Islands for its buttery, banana-floral richness, lends an exotic creaminess that rounds the sharper aldehydic edges. Rhodinol, with its rosy-green character, adds freshness and lift, preventing the florals from becoming heavy. Violet and ionone together form the backbone of the lilac illusion: powdery, cool, slightly earthy, and tinged with cosmetic elegance. Cinnamic alcohol introduces a warm, softly spicy glow, while methyl anthranilate adds a grape-like, orange-blossom sweetness that enhances the white florals. Hydroxycitronellal, a cornerstone of classic perfumery, contributes a clean, watery floral freshness—evoking lily-of-the-valley—and gives the heart its smooth, refined polish. Here, synthetics do not replace nature; they perfect it, sharpening contours and extending the floral fantasy beyond what natural materials alone could achieve.

The base emerges slowly, warm and sensual, grounding the airy florals in depth and longevity. Benzyl acetate adds a sweet, fruity-floral softness that echoes jasmine and lilac while smoothing the transition into deeper notes. Cedar provides a dry, pencil-wood structure, lending elegance and restraint. Civet, used sparingly, introduces a warm, animalic hum—skin-like and intimate—while musk and musk ambrette envelop the composition in a soft, powdery sensuality. 

Vanillin brings gentle sweetness, creamy rather than edible, harmonizing with the florals above. Storax, tolu balsam, Peru balsam, and benzoin form a rich balsamic tapestry: resinous, slightly smoky, sweet-ambered, and deeply comforting, evoking polished woods and glowing embers. Ambergris adds a salty-warm radiance and extraordinary diffusion, enhancing longevity and sensuality without heaviness. Bois de rose contributes a refined rosy-woody note, elegant and slightly spicy, tying the floral heart back to the structure of the base.

Taken as a whole, this imagined Lilac would feel poised and deliberate—an aldehydic floral balsamic that floats at first, powders softly at the heart, and finally settles into a warm, skin-like glow. It would not smell of a single flower, but of spring remembered through silk and light, rendered modern through chemistry and perfected through balance. This is lilac as Chanel would have understood it in 1929: abstract, feminine, confident, and timeless.

Bottles:

Lilac would have been housed in the standard Chanel flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.